Marrakech, Morocco - February 2025

Marrakech, our first African adventure!

We finally had the opportunity to venture to the African continent and chose Marrakech as our gateway. The visit was made especially wonderful as we were joined by our daughter and son-in-law for part of our time there.

Our journey began with a quick 1.5-hour flight from Malaga to Marrakech with Ryanair. While Ryanair lived up to its no-frills reputation, we couldn't complain, given the very reasonable €124.63 we paid for both of us, including one checked bag and pre-selected seats.

Upon arrival at Marrakech Menara Airport, we quickly discovered why travelers often mention the "experience" of entering Morocco. You will find yourselves guided through several checkpoints, including passport control where officers asked to see our accommodation and travel details, followed by baggage collection and another security scan before finally exiting into the arrivals hall. The process was well organized but time-consuming, especially as multiple flights had arrived simultaneously. Deep breath and patience!!

We found Marrakech to be a vibrant city full of life and energy and the Moroccan people to be genuinely warm and welcoming. We felt entirely safe during our stay, with the only worry being the traffic. Take care as motorbikes and mopeds buzz around you and take extra special care crossing the street.

The contrast between traditional and modern Marrakech is part of its charm - one moment you're haggling in centuries-old souks, the next you're sipping cocktails in a bar in the trendy Gueliz neighbourhood. It's worthwhile stating that while Marrakech has bars and nightclubs, it remains fundamentally an Islamic city with deep religious roots. You will be reminded of this as the call to prayer echoes through the city five times daily. Friday prayers are especially significant, and many businesses are closed until later in the day. Be mindful and respectful.

We stayed for 8 days, and found this perhaps a bit too long; 4 to 5 days would be ideal for most visitors to experience the highlights without feeling like you have overstayed your welcome.

A word of caution for your departure: give yourself plenty of time when leaving Marrakech by air. We counted no fewer than 7 different lines we had to navigate before boarding our plane. From the initial security scan at the airport entrance, to check-in (mandatory even with online boarding passes), passport control (twice!), security screening, and various document checks at the gate - I recommend arriving at least 3 hours before your flight, especially in tourist season.

In the sections below, I have only listed places personally visited. Prices have been converted from MAD to EUR. Visa and Mastercard are accepted at most places, AMEX not so much.

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Staying (Prices are from February 2025, converted from MAD to EUR)

Riad Kniza (map) (34 Derb l'Hotel Bab Doukala)

• Based on a family recommendation, we chose to stay in this 18th-century riad over a modern hotel and couldn't have been happier. Owner Mr. Mohamed Bouskri has beautifully restored what was originally several separate family homes, employing skilled craftsmen using traditional materials and techniques.

• The riad offers a peaceful haven just steps from the medina's bustle, featuring mosaics, plasterwork, cedar wood carvings, and tranquil water features in the many courtyards.

• The location is perfect as the riad sits close to Bab Doukkala, one of the medina's nine main gates. It is a 15-20 minutes' walk to Jemaa el-Fnaa and the souks, and similar distance to Gueliz.

• Our well-appointed rooms were beautiful furnished and well equipped, with staff refreshing them whenever we went out.

• We enjoyed lavish breakfasts and dined at the restaurant twice, experiencing some of the finest Moroccan cuisine. The rooftop terrace provided a delightful retreat with beautiful medina views.

• Note that traditional riads, designed to cool during hot summers, can be somewhat cold in winter months.

• The staff provided exceptional hospitality, from the traditional welcome of mint tea and rose-almond biscuits to making dinner reservations and booking tours. Mr. Mohamed and his team made us feel special throughout our stay.

• Highly recommended for those seeking authentic Moroccan accommodations that balance historical charm with modern comfort. We paid €230.00 per night for a “Superior Deluxe” room.

Riad Kniza

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Eating (Prices are from February 2025, converted from MAD to EUR)

Mizaan (map) (255 Avenue Mohamed V)

• Mizaan is a buzzy restaurant in trendy Gueliz offering a variety of Morrocan and international dishes in a share plates vibe.

• We ordered a variety of plates including the octopus artichoke, grilled kefta, grilled kebda, roasted chicken labneh, beef stew with mashed potatoes, beetroot hummus, grilled peppers, and cheese naan with zaatar. For dessert, the chocolate harissa mousse is brilliant!!

• For drinks, we had a cocktail (or two) each to start and a bottle of a perfectly quaffable Moroccan Sauvignon Blanc by Medaillon.

• The restaurant has a vibrant atmosphere with thoughtful design that creates a welcoming ambiance. We paid €180.00 for our party of four, which felt like good value considering the quality of food and service.

• Highly recommended.

Mizaan

 M Baacha (map) (2 Derb Dekkak)

• M Baacha is located close to Riad Kniza, offering an unusual blend of Moroccan and Thai influences in a lovely courtyard setting.

• We ordered a selection of dishes including chicken skewer, tom yum soup, salmon tartare, royale salad, Thai chicken curry, Thai vegetable curry, and prawns. Our drinks included three teas and a fruit juice. I must report that, if you are familiar with Thai food, you will find the dishes over sauced and a bit cloying.

• The atmosphere was relaxed and welcoming, making it an easy choice for a casual dinner near our accommodation.

• We paid €110.00 for our party of four. No alcohol served.

• Recommended.

Naranj (map) (84 Rue Riad Zitoun El Jdid)

• Naranj is a Lebanese restaurant, located in the heart of the souk, with a nice rooftop terrace.

• We ordered a variety of mezze to start and then shared fatoush, hamshouka, hummus with octopus, and sharwarma. We finished with the Naranj chocolate cake to share. All the food was fantastic. For drinks, we enjoyed two Rose Naranj and a Virgin Mojito.

• The restaurant has a welcoming atmosphere with attentive service.

• We paid €100.00 for our party of four which we considered good value. No alcohol served.

• Highly recommended.

Naranj

Zeitoun Café Kasbah (map) (417 Bab Aganau)

• Located directly opposite the Saadian Tombs in Marrakech, Zeitoun Café Kasbah is a lively and busy café, with a nice terrace which offers a variety of Moroccan and international dishes. There is also another location by Jamaa el Fna.

• The café has a casual, bohemian atmosphere and we stopped by for lunch after a visit to the Hammam at La Sultana.

•  We ordered Salad Zeitoun, an omelette, a Kefta Sandwich, and Salad Quinoa. Drinks consisted of sparkling water, mint tea, strawberry juice, and pineapple juice. No alcohol served.

• The food was as casual as the setting and, unfortunately, so was the service. We had to wait a very long time for our food to arrive, and tempers were a bit frayed by the time we ate.

• We paid €36.00 for our party of four which was very reasonable but not worth going out of your way for. The other location Zeitoun Café by Jamaa el Fna might be better?

Palais Donab (map) (53 Dar El Basha)

• Palais Donab is a stunning riad on the northern edge of the souk. At its heart is a beautiful courtyard featuring a garden and swimming pool, truly a tranquil oasis in the middle of the medina. This would be a lovely place to stay.

• Palais Donab also has an elegant restaurant where we had dinner one evening.

• Our meal included an exceptional lamb tajine with artichoke and peas, a delicious mixed grill, and the standout Salad Palais Donab.

•  assorted Moroccan salads with wonderful flavors and textures,

• We paired our meal with a bottle of Sahari Reserve (a lovely Moroccan wine), finishing with crème caramel and traditional mint tea poured in the customary Moroccan style.

• The service was attentive yet unobtrusive, allowing us to enjoy the ambiance at a leisurely pace.

• At €115.00, our dinner for four excellent value considering the exceptional food quality and magnificent setting.

• Highly recommended.

Riad Kniza Restaurant (map) (34 Derb l'Hotel Bab Doukala)

• The dining room at the Riad Kniza, with a fire in the grate, was a cozy spot on a chilly February evening.

• The restaurant offers both a fixed price menu (€28.80 for residents and €52.80 for visitors) and an à la carte option.

• Choosing à la carte, we started with bowls of Harira Soup and then shared a very generous assortment of Moroccan Salads and Briwat, Chicken Tajine, and a bottle of local white wine. More than enough for the two of us and a very reasonable €65.00.

• The food and service was great.. so much so that we had dinner at "home" a couple of times.

• Highly recommended, especially for riad guests.

Cafe Restaurant Stti de Fadma (map) (WP 10 Bus Stop, P2017, Asgaour)

• Setti Fadma is a little town perched at the top of the Ourika Valley in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains.

• Café Restaurant Setti de Fadma is just one of a charming string of riverside eateries that have arranged tables and cushions right on the riverbank and was the lunch stop chosen by our tour driver - a common practice that hints at commissions earned.

• Lunch was a set menu and included your choice of soup or a salad to start, chicken tagine with olives and lemon or mixed grill skewers to follow and a choice of chocolate mousse or orange slices doused in honey and topped with a sprinkle of cinnamon for dessert. I must tell you that we have totally stolen the orange dessert and have made it for many friends back home. It’s a sensation, try it!!

• We paid €12.00 per person and while the food itself is perfectly acceptable, the highlight is the dining experience. Sitting on low cushions beside the flowing river, with the Atlas Mountains framing the background, is pretty spectacular.

• Highly Recommended for the setting, if not for culinary excellence.

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Drinking (Prices are from February 2025, converted from MAD to EUR)

Petanque Social Club (map) (70 Bd el Mansour Eddahbi)

• Petanque Social Club is a stylish spot Marrakech's trendy Gueliz district. It’s transformation from 1930s pétanque (think boules or bocce) club to modern social hotspot speaks to Marrakech's evolving identity.

• We stopped by for pre-dinner drinks on an evening just as the the garden was coming to life for the night. It's a lovely setting.

• We ordered a mojito and a glass of excellent Clos Gabriele Cuvee Blanche from the Berkane area of Morocco.

• This is Marrakech's modern side – sophisticated yet unpretentious. Our total bill came to  €20.50 – very reasonable for such lovely experience.

• Highly recommended.

Petanque Social Club

Rooftop at El Fenn (map) (Derb Moulay Abdullah Ben Hezzian)

• El Fenn is a stylish boutique hotel in the heart of the medina and the bar carries the reputation as Marrakech's premier spot for rooftop drinks and fun.

• We attempted to visit several times during our stay, finding it either fully booked or reserved for private events. Persistence paid off when we finally secured spots for drinks one afternoon.

• The space is set up with stylishly arranged daybeds and lounging areas and has panoramic views spanning the medina and the Atlas Mountains on the horizon.

• Expect to pay €8.50 for a glass of Moroccan wine and €9.50 for a draft beer. While we did not eat, the food being served looked very good.

• Prices are definitely higher than typical for Marrakech, but the setting and vibe at El Finn make them more than palatable.

• Highly recommended.

El Fenn

Kremm Café (map) (Dar El Basha, Bab Doukkala)

• Kremm was halfway between our riad and the heart of the souk and made for the ideal pit stop after an afternoon of sightseeing.

• The café, part of the Palais Khum boutique hotel has a charming and relaxed courtyard where to enjoy a glass of wine or beer.

• Expect to pay €6.50 for a glass of wine.

• Recommended, but only if you happen to be in the neighbourhood.
  

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Doing (Prices are from February 2025, converted from MAD to EUR)

Food Tour with Moroccan Food Tour.

• We paid 60 Euros per person for this guided culinary adventure through Marrakech with the company, Moroccan Food Tour. The starting point was at the Maroc Poste Building in Jemaa el-Fnaa square (map).

• Our guide, the charming Fatima, took us through the medina's food markets and stalls, allowing us to sample a variety of Moroccan specialties. We went to places that we would never have discovered ourselves and to places that even if we had stumbled upon them, we would never have had the courage to enter.

• During the tour we stopped at 6 different places and there was a lot of food. We had gluten intolerances in our party, and this was not a problem at all.

• I can not recommend this tour highly enough, especially early in your stay to help orient yourself to Moroccan cuisine.

Jardin Majorelle and YSL Museum (map) (Rue Yves St Laurent)

• Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum next door is pretty much non-negotiable for first-time Marrakech visitors.

• The garden was created in 1920s by French painter Jacques Majorelle and later rescued from development by Yves Saint Laurent in the 1980s and is the city's most photographed landmark. In the garden grounds you will find also the Berber Museum which has a very interesting collection of artifacts.  

• It’s all very pretty and meticulously maintained but somehow, I did not find it measured up to the hype that surrounds it.

• The combined ticket costs €30 per person - be sure to reserve tickets online.

Jardin Majorelle

Hammam at La Sultana (map) (Rue de la Kasbah)

• La Sultana is a 5-star hotel near the Saadian Tombs in the medina of Marrakech. It boasts a fantastic hammam and this traditional Moroccan bathing ritual, was a highlight of our trip.

• This was our first time experiencing a traditional hammam, and we were fortunate to enjoy La Sultana's Signature Ritual alongside our daughter and son-in-law, who generously treated us to this special outing. What a memorable gift!

• The experience consisted of a 45-minute hammam consisting of a steam bath, black soap scrubbing, clay mask, and a proper rinsing followed by a 50-minute Moroccan argan oil massage. The combination of heat, exfoliation, and massage really does leave you feeling rejuvenated, relaxed, and pampered.

• There are many places in Marrakech to have a hammam, however, La Sultana offers a luxurious version of this traditional practice in beautiful surroundings with fantastic staff and service. I would say it is most definitely worth the splurge. A must-do Marrakech experience.

• La Sultana's Signature Ritual costs €145 per person.

• Highly recommended.

Bahia Palace (map) (Avenue Imam El Ghazali Medina)

• Built in the late 19th century, this lovely palace ("Bahia" means "brilliance”) exemplifies Moroccan architecture with its painted ceilings, tiles, and decorated wrought iron artwork.

• The sprawling rooms, artwork, marble courtyard, and opulent gardens make this a must-visit historical site.

• Entry costs 100 Dirhams (€10) per person.

• Highly recommended.

Saadian Tombs (map) (Rue de la Kasbah)

• These tombs dating back to the 16th century and built during the reign of the Saadian dynasty were sealed up for centuries and only rediscovered in 1917.

• The main mausoleum features stunning cedar wood and stucco decoration, with beautiful marble tombs. You can not enter the actual mausoleum but there is a viewpoint to take a good look and photos.

• While the site is relatively small, the historical significance and craftsmanship make it worth visiting.

• Entry costs 100 Dirhams (€10) per person. Please note cash only.

• Recommended.

Saadian Tombs

Day Trip to Ourika Valley (map)

• The team at Riad Kniza effortlessly arranged this guided tour for us. Our guide arrived in a modern, comfortable SUV, and we were soon whisking our way southeast out of Marrakech, leaving the city behind.

• As we wound our way through the countryside, we stopped at several stunning viewpoints. The contrast between the arid plains and the snow-capped Atlas Mountains is spectacular.

• Along the route, we visited a traditional Berber carpet workshop and also a women's argan oil cooperative, where we purchased some of the culinary version of this "liquid gold." I know opinions vary on these workshop visits, but personally, I'm ambivalent about the practice. These small, often remote communities should benefit from tourism, and these stops do provide a glimpse into local crafts and traditions.

• The terraced fields, scattered villages, and the flowing Ourika River offer a brilliant glimpse into rural Moroccan life and the country's diverse landscapes.

• As noted in the eating section, we stopped for lunch in the little village of Setti Fadma on our way back, that riverbank experience was worth the trip alone.

• In total our trip was about 6 hours and paid 60 Euros per person for this guided excursion. Highly recommended.