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Writer's pictureAmar Dhaliwal

Ronda, Spain - February 2024

Ronda was stop eight of our Andalusian adventure (previous stops were Malaga, Granada, Ubeda, Seville, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Jerez de la Fronterra, and Cadiz).


Ronda is one of the jewels of Andalusia. Perched dramatically atop a plateau, this picturesque town is divided by the breathtaking El Tajo gorge.





We arrived in Ronda by bus from Cádiz, a scenic journey that took 2 hours as we wound our way from town to town and finally to the estacion de autobuses in Ronda. We paid €25.00 per person (including Omio's booking fee of €3.80)


Ronda's compact size makes it an ideal town to explore on foot. Wandering through its narrow, cobbled streets, we were constantly amazed by the blend of historical landmarks and vibrant local culture.


The town's most famous sight, the Puente Nuevo, offers spectacular views of the El Tajo gorge and the surrounding landscape. I just love that the Puente Nuevo (“New” Bridge) is over 200 years old, this alone, talks to the different scale of time you need to adopt in this beautiful region.


Like much of Andalusia, Ronda's history is a rich and sumptuous tapestry woven from its Moorish, Roman, and Christian past. We spent two days in Ronda, which felt just about right.


Having seen most of this stunning and interesting town, we don’t feel the compulsion to rush back anytime soon and spend more time.


In the sections below, I have only listed places personally visited.


 

Staying (prices are from February 2024)

Parador de Ronda (map) (Pl. España)


The Paradores of Spain are a network of state-run hotels. These properties typically consist of restored castles, monasteries, convents, fortresses, manor houses, and palaces, as well as some exceptional modern properties. This was our first stay in of one these properties.

The Parador de Ronda was established in 1994 (it was previously the town hall) and has the prime location in Ronda, perched on the edge of the El Tajo gorge looking over the Puente Nuevo.  

 

During our stay, the terrace was closed, which was a huge shame as it would be the loveliest of places to have lunch, dinner, or a drink.

 

Our room was very comfortable with views over the gardens and beyond to the beautiful olive tree covered countryside.

 

Overall, the Parador was very comfortable and welcoming, I couldn't help but feel, however, that the furnishings and décor gave this stunning building more the feel and ambience of an executive training center than a luxury hotel.

 

We paid €125.00 per night for our room.

 

Highly Recommended.

 


 

Eating (prices are from February 2024)

 

Restaurante del Parador de Ronda (map) (Pl. España)

 

After a long day of travel and sightseeing we decided that dinner in the hotel would be a nice and comfortable thing to do.

 

The dining room of the Parador De Ronda does, in all fairness, lack character and in keeping with my comment about the hotel generally feeling like a place people go for training and meetings.

 

We ordered ajobianco (a chilled almond and garlic soup) and some local cheeses to start followed by lomo de bacalao (cod loin) and solomillo de tarbera (beef tenderloin). The food was perfectly fine, not exceptional. The service was cheerful and efficient.

 

We paid €110.00 (including €28.00 for a bottle of white wine and couple of glasses of red)

 

Recommended.

 

 

Tragata (map) (C. Nueva, 4)

 

This was one of the highlight meals of our trip.

 

Tragata is the more casual, sister restaurant of the two Michelin starred Bardal in Ronda.We found it to be a very welcoming and modern space with a lovely energy.

 

To start we shared a tomate ventresca (tomatoes with tuna belly and fresh spring onions) followed by pollo picaton (roasted baby chicken with potato and onion ragout and mustard) and lubina frita (fried seabass with an asian style dressing). We don’t usually order dessert but had to have a slice of their famous flan, well worth the calories!

 




To accompany our meal, we had a bottle of local red wine, Pago El Espino (from Cortijo Los Aguilares) which was exceptional at €30.00.

 

We paid €115.00 (including the bottle of wine and one glass of Pedro Ximénez). The service we received was charming and attentive.

 

Highly recommended. Do make a reservation, which you can do online.


 

Drinking (prices are from February 2024)

Casa Ortega (map) (Pl. del Socorro, 17)


Located on the lovely Plaza del Socorro, Casa Ortega was the first placed we stopped in Ronda to quench our thirst after the trip from Cádiz.





This is a charming restaurant and bar, and seemed very popular with locals who were enjoying the outdoor seating on the plaza.


We sat at the attractive bar, and enjoyed a manzanilla (€2.50) for a glass of wine (€3.50).


Highly Recommended.



Las Maravillas (map) (Carrera Espinel, 12)

 

This restaurant was extremely busy during the time we were in Ronda and part of the reason why, was that it was one of the few places that was open around 6.00pm when many tourists, especially with younger families, want to eat.

 

We snagged some perfect bar space (with stools) by the window and watched the world go by for an hour.

 

Expect to pay around €3.00 for a glass of wine, €2.50 for a beer, between €1.80 and €4.00 for a tapa.


Recommended.



Taberna El Almacén (map) (C. Virgen de los Remedios, 7)


This is a modern taberna just off the Plaza del Socorro and we stopped here for a later afternoon drink. We enjoyed the vibe here and would have considered coming for dinner if we had the extra time in Ronda.





Expect to pay around €2.00 for a manzanilla and €2.70 for a glass of white wine.


Recommended.


 

Doing (prices are from February 2024)


Cross the Puente Nuevo and walk around the town


As mentioned above, the Puente Nuevo (New Bridge) is more than 200 years old and is one of the most photographed places in Spain, it’s certainly the most photographed bridge!


The Puente Nuevo spans the 120-meter-deep El Tajo gorge and offers amazing views of the Guadalevín River below. The bridge connects the old and new parts of Ronda and allows you to have a wonderful ramble through the history and culture of this remarkable town.


For €2.50 per person, you can visit the Centro de Interpretación del Puente Nuevo which is in the chamber above the central arch, and which has served various purposes including as a prison.


Obligatory.



Museo Joaquin Peinado (map) (Pl. del Gigante)


The Museo Joaquín Peinado, located in the historic center of Ronda, is dedicated to the life and works of Joaquín Peinado, a renowned Spanish painter associated with the Cubist movement and friend of Picasso.





The museum is housed in the beautifully restored Palacio de los Marqueses de Moctezuma, adding to its appeal.


Entry is €4.00 per person.


Recommended.



Palacio de Mondragón (map) (Pl. Mondragón)


The Palacio de Mondragón, also known as the Palace of the Marqués de Villasierra, is a historic and culturally significant building is renowned for its beautiful Mudejar-Renaissance architecture and its role as a museum that delves into Ronda's rich history.





The views from the garden and patio are alone worth the price of admission.


Entry is €4.00 per person.


Recommended.



Plaza de Toros (map) (C. Virgen de la Paz, 15)


Although bullfighting clashes with my own personal values, I do recognize its deep cultural roots and historical significance in communities like Ronda.


The town's iconic Plaza de Toros, one of the oldest bullrings in Spain, stands as a testament to this tradition, offering a glimpse into a practice that has shaped local heritage and identity for centuries.





As you will also learn during your tour, Ernest Hemingway had a profound connection to Ronda, marked by his love for bullfighting, the literary inspiration he drew from the town's beauty and culture, and his personal relationships with local bullfighters.


As if one cultural giant of the 20th century were not enough, Orson Welles is also venerated in Ronda for his love affair with Spain and all things Spanish. His ashes were scattered at the bottom of a well on a country estate in Ronda, which belonged to his great bullfighting friend Antonio Ordoñez!


The tour of Plaza de Toros costs €11.00 euros per person (with audio guide).


Obligatory.


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