Málaga, Spain - January 2025

Ahh. Back in Málaga.

Last year we came to Málaga for the first time (read the report here) and fell in love with this charming city. This year we took the opportunity to return and spend a more relaxed time – in fact we made Málaga our hub for this trip and would be passing through several times.

Our previous visit (report can be found here) had given us a taste of what Málaga had to offer. The joy of this trip lay in the luxury of time. We weren't rushed to tick off tourist attractions or cram our days with activities. Instead, we took the opportunity to revisit beloved spots, like the Cathedral, the Picasso Museum, and the Mercado Central de Atarazanas and to discover new treasures, hidden corners, and local haunts that had eluded us on our first trip.

As we settled into the unhurried pace of Málaga life, we found ourselves falling even more for the charms of this enchanting, and often overlooked, city.  It’s true, the best way to see a city is to slow down and let it reveal itself to you.

In the sections below, I have only listed places personally visited.

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Staying (prices are from January 2025)

AC Hotel Málaga Palacio (map) (Calle Cortina del Muelle, 1)

• This is a welcoming hotel on the southern edge of the Centro Histórico, just next to the magnificent Cathedral. Staying here, you are a short walk to monuments, restaurants, and shops. You are also just a few steps from Parque de Málaga, the waterfront, and lovely walks around the harbour district.

• The rooms are spacious and beds comfortable. Try to get a south facing room, on the 5th floor or higher, for a view over Parque de Málaga and the harbour beyond.

• The downstairs lobby is a welcoming and comfortable spot for a coffee and a place to do some work if needed.

• The rooftop bar / restaurant is a very popular spot for residents and visitors alike. It’s the perfect place for a cocktail as you watch to sun set over the coast of Andalucia. As a resident you do get priority access.

• We found the staff to be very friendly and helpful.

• Stayed on a points Bonvoy redemption.

• Highly recommended.

  
  

Palacio Solecio (map) (C. Granada, 61)

• This is a relatively new hotel in the eastern edge of the Centro Histórico, very close to the Roman Theatre, and just steps from restaurants, bars and shops. We were here for just one night as we had a very early morning flight.

• The hotel is in a beautiful, restored palacio, spread over two buildings. The lobby is welcoming and opens onto a delightful looking courtyard restaurant. The hotel also features a rooftop terrace, which looks like it would be a very nice place to hang out in the sun.

• Our room was lovely with a very comfortable bed. The bathroom is large and features a fantastic shower, with high quality toiletries by Per Purr.

• We found the staff to be very welcoming and helpful.

• One thing to note is that taxis cannot get to the front door of the hotel. The closest pick up / drop off point is Plaza de la Merced which is a short walk away.

• We paid €180.00 for our one-night stay.

• Highly recommended.

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Eating (prices are from January 2025)

La Cosmo (map) (C. Císter, 11)

• La Cosmo is a modern, lively, and welcoming restaurant which has earned a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide.

• We sat at the bar, always our favourite place, and enjoyed a memorable meal with the added benefit of a ring side view of the bustling kitchen.

• We ordered everything to share. We started with some gilda (€7.00 each), which was followed by a salad of hake and potato (€7.00), a lovely plate of morel mushrooms (€22.00), and a perfectly grilled duck breast (€22.00).

• Everything was accompanied with a nice bottle of Cantayano Verdejo (€30.00)

• Overall, we paid €101.60 and this was one of the highlight meals and dining experiences of our entire trip.

• Highly recommended. Reservation required

  
  

  

  
  

Tragata (map) (Alameda Principal, 3)

• Last year we had dinner at Tragata in Ronda, it being the more casual offspring of the two Michelin starred Bardal. As I noted in my report from last year, it was one of the highlight meals of our trip. Learning that there was now an outpost of Tragata in Málaga, we had to pay a visit.

• The space is modern and quite cavernous and the welcoming energy of the dining room in Ronda was conspicuous by its absence.

• We were seated in the dining area towards the back of the restaurant.

• Overall, we paid €118.80. While this was a perfectly nice meal, it was not nearly as memorable as our previous dining experience at Tragata. I do have the feeling that as the restaurant gets busier in high season it will be better.

• Recommended. Reservation required.

Mercado Central De Atarazanas (map) (C. Atarazanas, 10)

• In the southeast corner of the of the market is a small food stall called “El Cartuchito” with a smallish menu of fried and grilled fish, calamari, sandwiches, and an arroz con pescado (don’t call it paella but that’s basically what it is).

• They have seating just outside the market but we preferred to stand at the bar, ordering a couple of plates of food and a couple of glasses of wine.

• We paid €18.80.

• Highly recommended.

El Pimpi (map) (C. Granada, 62)

• In my trip report from last year, I bemoaned the fact that we were not knowledgeable enough to have had the El Pimpi experience that had made this place an institution. This year, armed with experience of taberna culture, and must better Spanish skills, our El Pimpi experience was transformed and so enjoyable!

• El Pimpi has several spaces, on two floors, including more traditional dining rooms, however, our favourite spot is El Tunel Del Pimpi, which is the long bar on your left-hand side as you enter. This space can be busy but don’t be put off, walk in and you will find a eventually find a spot and you will have a blast.

• To eat, order the Langostinos El Pimpi (prawns in olive oil with garlic at €10.00), Atun Encebolla (Tuna with caramelized onions at €5.00 for a tapa sized portion), and the Cordero a La Moruna (Moroccan style lamb at €5.00 for a tapa sized portion).

• A glass of white wine is €4.50, and a beer €4.00.

• This is an obligatory stop when you are in Málaga. Highly recommended.

La Gloria (map) (C. Beatas, 51)

• With a chill in the evening, the warm and welcoming light emanating from La Gloria literally drew us in. The interior is spacious and modern, and in mid-January it was quite quiet.

• We ordered the house salad to start (€9.00), paella for two (€30.00), and a bottle of wine of Verdejo from Coso Viejo (€16.50). We paid €60.00 in total. The food was fine, came quickly and was plentiful.

• We found the staff to be friendly and efficient, however, our experience does not seem to be that of many people who have reviewed this restaurant.

• Recommended.

Casa Lola (map) (C. Strachan, 11)

• The Casa Lola group operates several establishments in Málaga and Marbella.

• If you spend any time in Málaga, you will walk past one of their restaurants which always seem to be busy and full, and often with lines of people waiting to be seated.

• The restaurants have the same, extensive, menu with a big selection of pinchos, tapa, and Andalusian favourites. We enjoyed both of our visits; the food was good and the staff friendly and efficient

• Expect to pay €3.50 for a glass of wine, €4.00 for large beer, and around €3.00 for pinchos and tapa.

• Recommended.

Madame Suzanne (map) (C. Casas de Campos, 31)

• Located in the interesting Soho district, Madame Suzanne, was a restaurant that regularly came up in reviews as a good place to eat.

• On the evening we visited in January, we were the only people in the entire restaurant. By the time we figured out that this was not going to change we had already ordered food and drink and were committed to staying.

• We shared a Salad Nicoise to start (€12.00) and then ordered the Salmon En Papillote (€20.60) and Bacalao a la Provencale (€21.00). To drink we had a bottle of white wine from Bordeaux at €24.00. We paid €77.60 in total. Please note that the prices on their web site are not up to date.

• It’s hard for me to rate this restaurant. Our experience was, of course, overwhelmingly affected by the absence of any other diners but, having said that, the food was not particularly memorable or good value for money.
  

Cantina Canalla (map) (C/ Trinidad Grund, 28)

• Craving something spicy, we made our way to Cantina Canalla (also in the Soho district) for some Mexican food. An earlyish lunch meant that there was plenty of choice in terms of seating. 

• We each ordered the Azteca soup to start (at €8.00 each). On taking our first taste we both had to send the soup back as it was hardly warmed through. We followed the soup (when it returned hot) with some Enchiladas (€16.00) and chicken flautas (€13.00) – both of which were fine but nothing more than that.

• A glass of verdejo came in at €3.00 and a glass of beer at the same price.

• Overall, we paid €54.00. If you are desperate for Mexican food, seek it out, but otherwise give it a miss.

Ultramarinos Benjamin (map) (C. Strachan, 6)

• A lovely chance to catch up with some friends from Vancouver, who now live in Marbella, meant we gathered for Sunday lunch at Ultramarinos Benjamin in the old town.

• The restaurant has a bright welcoming dining room, and we were seated a lovely round table (big enough for the six of us) in a semi private area of the restaurant.

• We ordered a wide variety of food including steak tartar (€24.50), prawn and avocado salad (€17.00), padron peppers (€7.00), the house cheese and charcuterie board (€27.00), mini truffle omelete (€10.00) and two orders of fideuá huerta (€17.00 per order).  Fideuá is a variation of paella, but made with fideo (short, thin wheat noodles) instead of rice. All the food was accompanied by wine (€3.50 per glass), beer (€3.25 per glass), and a variety of soft drinks.

• This was a charming lunch, slow and relaxed. The restaurant has a welcoming atmosphere and fantastic, attentive, service. The final bill came to €162.20, which represented great value for money for the quality and quantity of the food and wine.

• Highly recommended.

El Café de Chinitas (map) (Pje. Chinitas, 6)

• El Café De Chinitas is a historic venue that originally opened in 1857 as a café-theater and became a renowned flamenco hotspot. It reopened in 2024 following extensive renovations and features a wonderful circular bar.

• Sitting at the bar, as is our want, we ordered some mussels (€16.00), meatballs (€3.50), a salad of peppers (€3.50), and some gilda (€2.75 each).

• Along with a bottle of verdejo we paid €51.00.

• Recommended.
  

Meson Lo Gueno (map) (C. Marín García, 9)

• Meson Lo Güeno has both a formal restaurant and also a casual tapas bar. Surprise, surprise it was in the cosy bar we found ourselves one evening.

• We ordered their version of langostinos pil pil (€12.00) which was not nearly as good as at El Pimpi, patatas bravas (€9.00), and a fabada which is a lovely stew of white beans and sausage at (€4.00).

• Along with a few glasses of wine (€3.50) we paid €36.50. Or we thought we did. When I checked our credit card slip, we had actually been charged €39.50. No big deal, but a very good reminder (in the age of payment by tap) to actually look at the screen of the credit card machine before you tap your card and to make sure you get a copy of the credit card slip.

• It may not have been deliberate but still, I find it hard to recommend this place.
  

La Recova (map) (Pje Ntra. Sra. de los Dolores de San Juan, 3)

• Tucked away in an alley in the old town, La Recova doubles as a café and home goods emporium. It’s a particularly inviting spot for those that have a gluten intolerance with many options to choose from.

• For our lunch we ordered some cheese (€3.50), boquerones (€3.50), Moroccan chicken (€9.50), and chorizo infierno (€3.50). The chorizo is an experience all by itself as you cook it to your preferred doneness over a little fire that is placed on your table!

• Along with a couple of glasses of wine (€2.50) and beer (€1.70) we paid €29.90 for lunch. The food and service is excellent.

• Highly recommended.  

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Drinking (prices are from January 2025)

Renard Cocktail Club (map) (C. Duque de la Victoria, 7)

• If you like hand crafted cocktails made by perfectionists, then this is hands down the best cocktail bar in Málaga.

• The space is small, dark, and quirky, in other words perfect for this kind of establishment and we frequented several times during our time in Málaga.

• Expect to pay between €10.00 and €14.00 per drink. For example, we paid €11.00 for a Sidecar and €10.00 for a Penicillin, both of which were excellent.

• Highly Recommended.

Rooftop bar at the AC Hotel (map) (Calle Cortina del Muelle, 1)

• The rooftop bar at the AC Hotel Málaga Palacio, also known as ÀTICO Bar & Restaurant, is a popular destination in Málaga. Situated on the 15th floor, it offers panoramic views of the harbor, Mediterranean Sea, Málaga Cathedral, and city rooftops, making it the tallest rooftop bar in the city.

• As a resident of the hotel, you get priority access and no entrance fee.. For non-residents there is an entrance fee of €10.00, which includes a drink.

• A glass of wine will cost €5.00 and a beer €3.50. When busy, it can be hard to find a table and hard to get service, but the views are worth the hassle.

• Highly Recommended.

Carmen at the Only YOU Hotel (map) (Alameda Principal, 1)

• The Carmen Bar at the Only YOU Hotel is an inviting space located on the ground floor of the hotel and welcomes visitors.

• The large circular bar is a nice place to sit and enjoy a pre-dinner libation. A glass of wine will cost €4.50 and a beer €5.50.

• Recommended.

Antigua Casa de Guardia (map) (Alameda Principal, 18)

• On our return to Málaga, Antigua Casa de Guardia was amongst our first stops.

• Serving vermut and sherry from barrels since 1840, they carry on the tradition of writing down your tab in chalk on the bar and also filing bottles by the litre for locals to take away!

• The choice of what to drink can be overwhelming but I suggest you start with a Pajarete, which is a perfect example of a Málagan sweet wine and take it from there.

• There is a small selection of tapas available. Expect to pay €2.00 to €2.50 per drink.

• This is an obligatory stop when you are in Málaga. Highly recommended.

Puerta Oscura (map) (C. Molina Lario, 5)

• Mild mannered café by day, intimate and stylish cocktail bar by night. Puerta Oscura is a gem.

• The décor is beautiful – think fancy salon style. The service is on point and most importantly they prepare a fantastic gin martini!!

• Expect to pay €10.00 to €12.00 for a cocktail and €4.00 to $6.00 for a glass of wine.

• Please note cash only.

• Highly Recommended.

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Doing (prices are from January 2025)

Museum Picasso (map) (Palacio de Buenavista, C. San Agustín, 8)

• Picasso is the best-known son of Málaga, and this museum dedicated to him might have single-handedly changed the direction of this city. You must visit.

• Entry is €13.00 per person. Book online to save you from having to line up.

• This is an obligatory stop when you are in Málaga. Highly recommended.

Málaga Cathedral (map) (C. Molina Lario, 9)

• The cathedral of the Encarnación is one Málaga’s most important monuments with Renaissance and Baroque influences.

• Entry is €10.00 per person which includes an audio guide.

• This is an obligatory stop when you are in Málaga. Highly recommended.

Alcazaba of Málaga (map) (C/ Alcazabilla, 2)

• Built on the slopes of Gibralfaro mountain, the Alcazaba of Málaga is a must visit. As you approach the main entrance take a moment to admire the Roman Theatre.

• Follow the path up the hill and you will reach the inner space which houses the beautiful palace. Take time to explore and admire the views.

• Entry is €3.50 per person. There is a free audio guide using your own phone.

• Make sure you are wearing good walking shoes.

• Highly Recommended.

Castle of Gibralfaro (map) (Cam. Gibralfaro, 11)

• Further up the mountain is the Castle of Gibralfaro.

• There have been fortifications here since the Phoenicians and the castle we can visit today dates to the 14th Century.

• We chose to walk up to the top; the path starts by the entrance to the Alcazaba. The walk takes about 25 minutes and parts have quite the incline. Make sure you have a good pair of walking shoes and are ready for a bit of a workout. Your efforts will be rewarded with wonderful views of the bull ring, harbour and beyond. You can also take a taxi up to the top and the tour buses stop there as well.

• The Castle is an enjoyable visit – as much for the views as the Castle itself. Entry is €3.50 per person.

• Recommended.

Centre Pompidou Málaga (map) (Pje. del Dr. Carrillo Casaux)

• The Centre Pompidou Málaga, known locally as El Cubo, is a vibrant and welcoming venue located in the heart of Málaga’s port area. When it opened it was first branch of the renowned Parisian institution outside France

• The museum features a semi-permanent collection (with works coming from Paris) alongside rotating temporary exhibitions all located in a brilliant architectural space.

• Entry is €9.00 per person. There is a free audio guide using your own phone,

• Highly Recommended

Museum of the Imagination (map) (C. Martínez Campos, 13)

• The Museum of the Imagination in Málaga, located in the Soho area, is an interactive space that invites visitors to explore the world of optical illusions and visual effects.

• The is a perfect spot for a family visit, combining science and fun. The quirky photo zones are particularly amusing!

• Entry is €10.00 per person.

• Highly Recommended

Museo del Automovil y la Moda (map) (Av de Sor Teresa Prat, 15)

• The Museo del Automóvil y la Moda in Málaga (located in the historic Tabacalera building, a former tobacco factory) is a one-of-a-kind venue that somehow combines the worlds of vintage automobiles and haute couture.

• The museum's collection features over 90 lovingly restored vehicles (from the likes of Rolls Royce, Ferrari, Bugatti, and Mercedes ) alongside more than 300 pieces of high fashion from designers such as Chanel, Dior, and Balenciaga.

• Whether you're a car enthusiast or a lover of fashion and design, the Museo del Automóvil y la Moda is a great place to spend a couple of hours.

• Entry is €10.00 per person.

• Highly Recommended

Evening Bay Cruise (map) (P.º del Muelle Uno)

• An evening bay cruise with Fly Blue in Málaga is a magical way to experience the city’s beauty from the sea.

• Departing from Málaga’s port area (close to the Centre Pompidou), this 1.5-hour catamaran ride takes you across the Bay of Málaga, providing spectacular views of the city skyline, the Alcazaba, and Gibralfaro Castle as the sun sets.

• The Fly Blue catamarans are equipped with comfortable seating (inside and outside) and an onboard bar. We took the 6.00pm cruise and paid €15.00 per person (we booked online). There are other companies who offer these cruises

• Highly Recommended

Museum of Málaga (map) (Plaza de la Aduana)

• The Museo de Málaga is a fantastic city museum housed in the grand Palacio de la Aduana.

  The collection spans over 15,000 archaeological artifacts and more than 2,000 works of art (even including some early works by Picasso) and gives visitors a brilliant journey through Málaga's rich history and heritage.

• The Palacio de la Aduana is a beautiful building and the museum’s thoughtful design blends its historical grandeur with modern exhibition spaces. You can easily spend 3 to 4 hours here.

• Entry is €1.50 per person. Please note cash only.

• Highly recommended